I'm starting this blog a month into our holiday. I had an opportunity given to me that I couldn't refuse, as a climber, the chance for a year off from work is something that should never be turned down. Fortunately for me, my Girlfriend Jo had long since decided to quit her job as an optician, that's correct, she's also a climber.
|Keeping our Xmas tree alive in the Spanish sun|
|Christmas in the van!|
|Playing accordion by Gandia main crag with our friend Helmar|
|Jo starting up Perpetum Mobile 7c @ Gandia Bovedon|
The grading in Spain falls mainly, everywhere... Some places you will fly up routes, some areas you won't make it off the floor without swearing at least once (Margalef springs to mind). El Bovendon is the latter, We have not made it to the top of one route without a good purple knee, smashed elbow or blood, from somewhere you only discover when you touch the floor and have time to look. “oh it was my index finger... and my shin... that explains the wet feeling around my ankle..” The rock is featured and brilliantly hard. Small caves inside the roof allow you to knee bar, shoulder jam, and get your bearings before you plunge upside down again and carry on your fight to the top.
|Jo locking off the crux of a powerful Bovedon 7b+|
The routes may be mean, but the bolting here is friendly, or rather, good. On some routes you go a distance, but that's only because nature hasn't yet worn a hold deep enough for you to hold on comfortably and clip your rope, so the equipper didn't put a bolt there. El Bovedon has been put together just right. The shade appears early in the day so the routes are cool enough to climb on for many hours after. If you use the Rockfax guide then I would recommend adding some routes from this update below many routes are missed out, as is admitted by Rockfax, but this fills in the gaps. The walk in is also closer to 15mins than 5, but it's on an easy uphill path.
(Image curtesy of - www.valenciaclimb.com)